Cuyahoga Valley: the national park born of a river that caught fire

Cuyahoga Valley is a national park unlike the others. It’s neither remote nor wild: it stretches for 35 km between Cleveland and Akron, two large cities in Ohio. It’s a valley of forests, farms and waterfalls, with a river and an old canal running through it.

History and origins

The Ohio and Erie Canal opened in 1827. It linked Lake Erie to the Ohio River, and made the region’s fortune. The barges were pulled by mules, from a towpath that still exists.

Industry came next, and with it pollution. The Cuyahoga River was so laden with oil and waste that it caught fire several times. The fire of 1969 made news across the country and became a symbol. It helped bring about the great American clean water laws. The valley was protected in 1974 and became a national park in 2000. As for the river, its fish have returned.

What to do there

• Brandywine Falls: the most beautiful waterfall in the park, a drop of nearly 20 metres over sandstone ledges. A boardwalk goes down to face it.
• The Ledges: a forest loop at the foot of mossy sandstone cliffs, cut through by narrow passages. An overlook faces the valley, very beautiful at sunset.
• The towpath: the Towpath Trail follows the old canal for the whole length of the park. Flat, shaded, perfect by bike. Rental shops are in Peninsula.
• The Beaver Marsh: a former car scrapyard, which beavers have turned into a pond. A boardwalk crosses it. You see herons, turtles and, at nightfall, the beavers.
• The valley train: a scenic train runs along the river. You can board it with your bike, to pedal one way and sit on the way back.
• Peninsula: a canal-lock village that has kept its character, with its wooden houses and cafés.

Stories and good to know

• The park has around a hundred waterfalls, most of them small.
• It’s one of the most visited national parks in the country, because millions of people live next door and come here to run or walk their dogs.
• Roads and villages cross the park. You enter and leave it without noticing.

Practical information for your road trip

• Getting there: the Boston Mill Visitor Center is 30 minutes from Cleveland and 20 minutes from Akron.
• Parking: the Brandywine Falls car park is small and soon full at weekends. Come early or on a weekday.
• Where to stay: in Cleveland or Akron. There are a few inns in the valley.
• Combine it with: Cleveland and its rock music museum, or a drive to Niagara Falls, three hours away.