Guadalupe Mountains: the highest point in Texas, an ancient fossil reef

In west Texas, a wall of limestone rises above the desert. The Guadalupe Mountains hold the state’s highest point, and a secret: this mountain is an ancient reef, formed at the bottom of a sea more than 250 million years ago.

History and origins

At the time, a shallow sea covered the region. Sponges, algae and shellfish built a reef several hundred kilometres long. The sea evaporated, the reef was buried, then uplifted. It’s one of the best-preserved fossil reefs in the world. The caves of Carlsbad Caverns, right next door, are hollowed out of the same limestone.

The Mescalero Apache lived in these mountains until the end of the 19th century. A stagecoach line ran through here as early as 1858. The park was created in 1972, from ranches donated to the nation.

What to do there

• Guadalupe Peak: the summit of Texas, at 2,667 metres. The trail climbs 900 metres, with no technical difficulty but no let-up. At the top, a steel pyramid and a view of the desert as far as the eye can see.
• El Capitan: the prow of the range, a 300-metre cliff visible from 80 km away. You see it very well from the road.
• McKittrick Canyon: a sheltered canyon with a stream running through it. In autumn its maples turn bright red, a rare sight in Texas.
• Devil’s Hall: a trail in the bed of a dry wash, to a natural rock staircase and a narrow corridor.
• Smith Spring: a short loop to a shaded spring, starting from an old ranch.
• The Salt Basin Dunes: to the west, small dunes of white gypsum at the foot of the mountains, at the end of a long road.

Stories and good to know

• The park is on Mountain Time, an hour behind most of Texas.
• It’s one of the least visited national parks in the contiguous United States.
• There’s no hotel, restaurant or shop in the park.

Practical information for your road trip

• Pass: the America the Beautiful pass covers the entrance fee. Everything is explained in our guide to the national parks pass.
• Getting there: the park is on the road between El Paso, less than 2 hrs away, and Carlsbad, an hour away.
• On site: only water and toilets at the visitor center.
• Where to stay: in Carlsbad or Whites City, on the New Mexico side. The park has two campgrounds.
• Combine it with: Carlsbad Caverns, 45 minutes away, then White Sands or Big Bend.