Black Canyon of the Gunnison: a chasm so narrow the sun barely gets in

The Black Canyon isn’t big, but it is brutal. The Gunnison River has sawn through the rock almost vertically. In places the canyon is deeper than it is wide, and the sun only touches the bottom for a few minutes a day. Hence its name.

History and origins

The Gunnison drops faster here than almost any river in North America. In two million years it has cut into a very hard rock, nearly two billion years old. At the deepest point the walls are more than 800 metres high. At the narrowest, they are only 12 metres apart at water level.

The Ute knew the canyon, but avoided it. The first expeditions that tried to travel down it, at the end of the 19th century, abandoned their boats. The site was protected in 1933 and became a national park in 1999.

What to do there

• The South Rim road: 11 km and a dozen overlooks, all a few minutes’ walk from the car park. This is where everyone goes.
• Gunnison Point: right behind the visitor center, the first plunging view.
• Chasm View: the place where the canyon is at its narrowest. The far rim seems within arm’s reach.
• Painted Wall: the highest cliff in Colorado, nearly 700 metres, streaked with veins of pale rock.
• Warner Point: a ridge trail at the end of the road, with views of the canyon on one side and the mountains on the other.
• The East Portal road: a very steep descent to the river. It’s closed to vehicles over 6.70 m and shut in winter.
• The North Rim: a gravel road, a few overlooks and almost nobody.
• The night sky: the park is certified for the quality of its night sky.

Stories and good to know

• Between the two rims there are sometimes only 300 metres as the crow flies. By car, it takes two to three hours.
• The pale veins of Painted Wall are molten rock that squeezed into the cracks, more than a billion years ago.
• Climbers come a long way for these walls, among the hardest and most committing in the United States.

Practical information for your road trip

• Pass: the America the Beautiful pass covers the entrance fee. Everything is explained in our guide to the national parks pass.
• Getting there: the South Rim entrance is 25 minutes from Montrose. Allow about 5 hrs from Denver.
• On site: there’s no restaurant and no fuel in the park. Fill up in Montrose.
• Heights: the overlooks are protected by railings, but the drop is impressive. Hold children by the hand.
• Where to stay: in Montrose. The park has a campground on each rim.
• Combine it with: the Million Dollar Highway to Ouray and Silverton, or Mesa Verde, further south.