Dry Tortugas: a 19th-century fort alone in the open sea, 110 km from anything

At the end of the Keys, the road stops at Key West. The park is another 110 km further on, out in the open sea. Seven islets of sand and coral and, on one of them, a brick fort so big that it covers almost the whole island.

History and origins

The explorer Ponce de León named these islands in 1513: las Tortugas, because of the sea turtles. Sailors later added “Dry”, to warn that there wasn’t a drop of fresh water to be found.

In 1846, the United States decided to build a fortress here to control the entrance to the Gulf of Mexico. Construction lasted thirty years and swallowed up 16 million bricks. Fort Jefferson was never finished, and never fired a shot. During the Civil War it served as a prison. Its best-known inmate was Dr Samuel Mudd, convicted for treating Lincoln’s assassin.

What to do there

• Fort Jefferson: you wander freely over three levels of vaulted galleries, up to the top of the ramparts. The view over the water is superb. A guided tour is offered when the boat arrives.
• The moat walk: a walkway goes round the fort at water level, when it’s open.
• Snorkelling: you swim along the walls of the fort and the old pilings, covered in corals and fish. The equipment is lent by the boat.
• The beaches: white sand and water at 28°C in summer, a few steps from the landing.
• Bush Key: the neighbouring islet, where tens of thousands of terns come to nest. It’s closed during nesting, from spring to autumn.
• Loggerhead Key: an island further out, with its lighthouse and a shallow wreck. You can only get there in your own boat or by kayak.

Stories and good to know

• The fort is the largest brick structure in the Americas. Its weight is slowly making the islet sink.
• Dr Mudd was pardoned after treating the garrison during a yellow fever epidemic.
• You can camp at the foot of the fort, on about ten pitches, bringing all your own water. Campers have the island to themselves in the evening.

Practical information for your road trip

• Getting there: the boat leaves Key West early in the morning and returns in the late afternoon. It gives you about four hours on site.
• Seasickness: the crossing can be rough, especially in winter.
• Seaplane: it costs about twice as much as the boat, but the journey is short and the flight alone is worth the trip.
• Where to stay: in Key West, the night before and the same evening.
• Combine it with: the road through the Keys and the Everglades.