Valley of the Gods: a Monument Valley without the crowds

Half an hour north of Monument Valley, Valley of the Gods looks a lot like it: the same buttes and the same red sandstone spires, standing on a vast plain. The difference is that here there is no ticket booth, no guide and no crowd. You drive through the valley freely on a dirt track, and you stop wherever you like.

History and origins

Valley of the Gods is neither a national park nor a tribal park. It is public land, managed by a federal agency, the Bureau of Land Management (BLM). That is why you will find no entrance fee, no visitor centre and no facilities.

The buttes have the same origin as those of Monument Valley: an ancient sandstone plateau, worn down by erosion over millions of years, of which only the most resistant pieces remain.

The valley was part of Bears Ears National Monument, created in 2016 at the request of five tribes from the region. It was removed from it in July 2026, when the monument was reduced by more than 90%. For visitors, nothing changes on the ground: the track is still open and free.

What to do there

• The track 📷The dirt track that crosses Valley of the Gods: 27 km of dirt between US-163, to the east, and Highway 261, to the west. It winds along the foot of the buttes, with a few wash crossings and bumps. Allow one to two hours with stops.
• The buttes 📷A red sandstone butte with a jagged top: they have colourful names, such as Seven Sailors, Setting Hen, Rooster Butte or Lady in the Bathtub. It’s fun trying to work out which is which 📷A rock formation shaped like a head.
• Walking freely: no trails are marked, but nothing stops you from walking up to the formations, as long as you treat the place with respect.
• Dispersed camping: it is allowed and free along the track, on sites that have already been used. There is no water, no toilets and no bins, and campfires are banned.
• Goosenecks State Park 📷The meanders of the San Juan River at Goosenecks State Park: a few minutes away, an overlook above the meanders of the San Juan River, carved 300 metres deep.
• The Moki Dugway 📷The switchbacks of the Moki Dugway at the foot of the cliffs: at the western exit of the valley, Highway 261 climbs a 350-metre cliff on 5 km of unpaved switchbacks, with no guard rail. At the top, a track leads to the Muley Point overlook.

Stories and good to know

• Valley of the Gods is often called Monument Valley’s little sister. You can drive from one to the other in half an hour, and the contrast is striking: the first is known the world over and tightly managed, the second is almost empty.
• The Moki Dugway was cut in 1958 for the trucks hauling uranium ore down from the mines on the plateau. Its gradient reaches 10 to 11%.
• At Goosenecks, the San Juan River travels nearly 10 km to advance 2.5 km as the crow flies.
• The valley was used as a location for the British series Doctor Who 🎬, for a 2011 episode.

Practical information for your road trip

• Getting there: the east entrance is on US-163, half an hour from Monument Valley. The west entrance is on Highway 261, at the foot of the Moki Dugway. You can drive the track in either direction.
• Track conditions: after rain, the dirt turns to mud and some sections cannot be crossed, even in a 4x4. Check the weather for the previous few days before you go.
• Being self-sufficient: there are no services on site. Set off with water and a full tank. Mexican Hat, about ten minutes away, has the nearest petrol station and grocery store. Bluff, about twenty minutes away, has more services.
• Moki Dugway: the road is wide and no problem in an ordinary car if you drive slowly. It is not recommended for vehicles over 8.5 metres long or 4.5 tonnes, which rules out most motorhomes.
• Goosenecks: it’s a state park, so the national parks pass is not accepted.
• Where to stay: dispersed camping on site, or a hotel in Mexican Hat, Bluff or Monument Valley.
• Combine it with: Monument Valley the day before or that morning, then the Moki Dugway and Natural Bridges on the way to Capitol Reef. That’s what we did.

Our experience in Valley of the Gods

We drove through it in May 2024, during our road trip 1, from Monument Valley, where we were staying. What struck us was the quiet: very few cars, and the freedom to stop anywhere.

⏳ Our day-by-day journals are coming soon.