Channel Islands: the Californian Galápagos, a world apart

From the coast at Ventura, in clear weather, you can see islands on the horizon. Five of them form a national park. Out there, there are no roads, no hotels and no shops: just cliffs, grassy hills, sea caves and animals that exist nowhere else.

History and origins

The islands have never been joined to the mainland. The plants and animals that reached them evolved separately, over thousands of years. There are nearly 150 species found only here. That’s why they are nicknamed the Galápagos of North America.

The Chumash lived here for millennia. They crossed to the mainland in large plank canoes. On Santa Rosa, human bones 13,000 years old have been found, among the oldest in North America. Then came sheep and cattle ranches, for more than a century. The park was created in 1980.

What to do there

• Santa Cruz: the largest island and the easiest for a first visit. From the landing at Scorpion, trails climb onto the cliffs. The foxes come prowling around the picnic tables.
• Anacapa: three narrow islets, the closest to the coast. A trail leads to Inspiration Point, a famous view along the crest of the islets. In spring, thousands of gulls nest here, and you can hear it.
• Kayaking: the cliffs of Santa Cruz are riddled with sea caves, including one of the largest in the world. Guided outings leave from Scorpion.
• Snorkelling: you swim through kelp forests, with bright orange fish and sea lions.
• Santa Rosa and San Miguel: further out and windier, for those who want to walk alone and camp. San Miguel is home to huge colonies of seals and sea lions.
• Whales: during the crossing you often see dolphins and, depending on the season, grey, humpback or blue whales.

Stories and good to know

• The island fox weighs no more than a cat. It almost disappeared in the 1990s, and its population was saved within a few years: one of the fastest recoveries ever seen in a mammal.
• The island scrub-jay lives only on Santa Cruz. It’s one of the most localised birds in North America.
• Pygmy mammoths, the height of a pony, once lived on Santa Rosa.

Practical information for your road trip

• Getting there: the boats leave from Ventura Harbor, 1 hr 15 north of Los Angeles. Allow an hour’s crossing to Anacapa or Santa Cruz, and up to three hours for the distant islands.
• The boat: a single company, Island Packers, runs the crossings. They are cancelled in heavy seas.
• Seasickness: the channel can be rough. Take precautions.
• Where to stay: in Ventura. Each island has a primitive campground, to be booked ahead.
• Combine it with: Santa Barbara, 30 minutes from Ventura, on Highway One.